Exploring here feels like stepping into a vibrant painting, writes Gemma Clarke.
Exploring Slovenia in the summer feels like stepping into a vibrant painting. This country is green, from its alpine forests and bountiful vineyards to Llubljana – the hip capital, which continues to be crowned ‘City of Trees’ year after year.
Not only does all this greenery make Slovenia a prime summer destination for hiking, roadtripping and long afternoons lazing by the river: it also means locals know they’ve got something worth caring for.
Slovenia is considered one of the most sustainable countries in Europe, with dozens of policies in place to protect its wild places and high biodiversity.
Getting there
From Australia
There are no direct flights from Australia to Slovenia, but you can get to Ljubljana via connecting flights from major Asian, Middle Eastern and European cities.
For example, Emirates flies Sydney to Llubljana via Dubai; or you can link up multiple legs with airlines such as Thai and Turkish airways, which will take you from Sydney to Ljubljana via Bangkok and Istanbul.
Journey times vary between 24 and 56 hours, depending how many stopovers you have.
The capital
Ljubljana is quaint and cool – charming visitors with its Baroque architecture, riverside eateries and laid-back vibe.
Discover Slovenia's rich history at Ljubljana Castle, wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town and explore the heart of the city via stand-up paddleboard: dipping under famous bridges, gliding past weeping willows and maybe even jumping in the river for a swim.
Slovenian is the official language, but English is widely understood.
Must-tries
Indulge in Slovenian delights such as potica (nut roll), štruklji (dumplings) and kravji bal (liqeur-filled chocolate in the shape of a cowbell).
Sample the local drop in the vineyards of the Karst region; learn about the country’s proud beekeeping traditions; dabble in medieval cosplay over traditional cuisine at Gostilna Na Gradu; crack open a cold one in a tub filled with hops, malt and water at Punkl Beer Spa; and get outside and explore the lush lakes, rivers, streams and springs Slovenia is famous for.
A bit of background
Settled by Slovenes in the 5th and 6th centuries, Slovenia has long been the crossroads of many languages and cultures – namely Slavic, Germanic and Romance.
Its territory has fallen under many different rulerships over time, including the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, the Carolingian Empire, the Kingdom of Hungary, the Republic of Venice, the Illyrian Provinces of Napoleon's First French Empire, the Austrian Empire and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
After WWI, Slovenia joined the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, which it gained independence from in 1991.
Today, Slovenia is part of the EU and is a modern nation known for its commitment to sustainability, delicious wine, breathtaking landscapes and old-world vibes.
Your itinerary for summer in Slovenia
Ljubljana to Radovljica
30 mins
Grab a morning brew from somewhere like Stow, Črno Zrno or Čokl, then put Radovljica in your GPS: a beautifully preserved medieval town with colourful houses, stone streets and hidden courtyards.
The scenic route there only takes half an hour, so if you’ve got time to dilly-dally, make a stop at Škofja Loka (another picture-perfect timewarp town), Kranj (Slovenia’s third-largest city) or Brdo Castle – a gorgeous Renaissance palace with an onsite restaurant set amidst very pretty parkland.
Once you get to Radovljica, the best thing to do is explore on foot.
Dip medenjaki (honey-infused ginger cookies) in your tea at a cozy cafe, admire the beautiful architecture, catch a folk dance in the town square, check out the rather witchy Museum of Pharmacy and Alchemy and eat at one of the many fabulous restaurants (the terrace at Lectar is a real highlight: they’ve been serving meals since 1822).
Radovljica to Lake Bohinj
30 mins plus lots of detours
Pack your bathers, because today’s journey is going to include many bodies of water. Begin with a stop at Vintgar Gorge, where wooden walkways follow a narrow river lined with cascading waterfalls and beech forests.
Continue to Lake Bled – nestled among the Julian Alps – with its iconic cliff-top castle. Take a dip or maybe even hop on a Pletna boat to visit the Church of the Assumption, which rests on the lake’s island.
Next up is Lake Bohinj: the largest lake in the country and a less-crowded tourist destination than Bled. There, you can swim in the crystalline waters, rent a paddleboat, hike to Savica Waterfall or get the Vogel Cable Car for a panoramic view.
Delight in Slovenian cuisine at local taverns, sampling dishes like žganci (a buckwheat porridge) and jota (sauerkraut and bean stew), and spend the night in an alpine chalet.
Lake Bohinj to Bovec
2 hours
You’ve got two options for your route today.
The first is to put your vehicle on the car train at Bohinjska Bistrica (10 minutes or so from the lake) and enjoy the novelty of looking out at the beautiful countryside – disembarking at the lovely town of Most na Soči.
From there, you’ll head north to Bovec, making plenty of stops along the majestic Soča River and also heading to Kobarid to check out its museum, restaurants, historical walk and the magnificent Kozjak Falls.
Alternatively, you can drive the whole way to Bovec – winding and bending over Vrsic, Slovenia’s highest pass, and maybe even doing a hike at the top!
You’ll encounter the aforementioned Soča River on your descent – so either way, you’ll get time with this unfathomably blue ribbon.
Thrill seekers can take side quests to go rafting, canyoning and paragliding – all of which can be organised from Bovec: Slovenia’s adventure capital. Local specialties in the region include trout and wild mushroom dishes.
Bovec to Vipava Valley
1 hour 40 mins
Head south towards the fertile Vipava Valley: a hidden gem known for its very fine wine, charming villages and paddock-to-plate gastronomy. Dotted with vineyards, orchards and medieval hilltop villages, the valley extends from the village of Podnanos to the border of Italy.
Base yourself in Ajdovščina or Vipavski Križ and sample exquisite wines made from grape varieties like Malvazija and Rebula, or the lesser-known Azelen and Pinela – unique to the region and best paired with local cheese and cured meats.
Cycle through the scenic landscapes, do a hike on the Trnovo Forest Plateau and indulge in a spot of fine-dining at Michelin-starred Gostilna Pri Lojzetu, which is housed in a 17th-century mansion.
Vipava Valley to Piran
1 hour
Continue your journey to the cute coastal town of Piran, located on the shores of the Adriatic Sea – either crossing the border into Italy on the way (goulash for lunch in Trieste, perhaps?) or sticking to the A1 and staying in Slovenia.
Piran is heavily influenced by Venetian aesthetics, and you’ll have a lovely time walking around the Old Town snapping pics of historic landmarks like Tartini Square and St. George’s Cathedral.
Take in panoramic views of the sparkling ocean by strolling the Piran Walls: the town’s old defence system – 400m of wobbly steps and cobblestones that offer a glimpse into maritime history.
Relax on the sun-drenched pebbly shores, dive into the sea and make the most of the beachside restaurants: sampling local specialties like grilled squid, seafood risotto and brancin (sea bass).
Piran to Ljubljana
1 hour 20 mins
The drive back to Ljubljana is a leisurely one, but there’s still lots to see. Today’s adventure starts at the Skocjan Caves: a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its underground caverns and majestic stalactites.
Next, continue on to Postojna Cave, one of the largest cave systems in the world. There are guided tours you can embark where you’ll see stunning rock formations and unique cave inhabitants like the olm: a cave-dwelling amphibian found only in southern Europe that used to be mistaken for a baby dragon!
The last marvel of your roadtrip is Predjama Castle – which has been perched in the middle of a giant cliff for more than 800 years. Tonight, you’ll rest your head back in Ljubljana: Slovenia’s capital.
Hero image of a picnic at Lake Bled 📸 Febe Vanermen