The Freely guide to summer in Iceland

Travelling Iceland in the summer feels like a pastel-hued dream – a combination of the country’s staggering scenery and the fact that it never gets completely dark. Even at 2am, the sun is dipped just below the horizon, creating an eerily beautiful twilight zone.

What this means is:  

a) There’s plenty of time in the day for adventuring (think bathing in hot rivers, admiring barking seals and purring puffins, walking behind colossal waterfalls and hiking routes so cosmic you could be on another planet); and

b) You’re probably going to want to sleep with an eye-mask.

What this does not mean is that the temperatures are always balmy and sublime. This is the Arctic, after all! Pack for all weather systems and if you’re camping (or sleeping in a non-insulated campervan), be sure bring warm things to snuggle into at night.

Getting there

From Australia:

There’s no such thing as a direct flight from Australia to Iceland; in fact, the journey will usually involve at least two stopovers, taking anywhere from 28–45 hours.  

British Airways offers a route from Sydney to Reykjavík–Keflavík Airport via Singapore and London; Singapore Airlines has a flight from Melbourne via Singapore and Copenhagen.  

If you’re coming straight from elsewhere in Europe, you should be able to get a direct flight from most major cities.

The capital

Reykjavik (say it with us: rake-ya-vik) is the world's northernmost capital, blending modernity with Icelandic heritage. The nearest airport is Reykjavík–Keflavík, which is about 50km away.  

Dive into the vibrant arts scene, hop on a whale-watching boat, wander the colourful streets and check out the Icelandic Phallological Museum, if that’s your jam.

English is widely spoken, but learning a few Icelandic phrases will really enhance your experience.

Must-tries

Feast on Icelandic delicacies like hákarl (fermented shark – the national dish), kjötsúpa (traditional lamb stew) and skyr (a creamy dairy product that has reached grocery stores the world over).  

Rye bread (rúgbrauð) is a staple here and snúður (cinammon snails – but pastry form) are delicious. Be sure to wash all these dishes down with brennivín, the local schnapps.

Stay in-the-know with the The Reykjavik Grapevine: an English-language magazine and online newspaper that has lots of info about events, news culture.  

Oh, and do beware of the Lagarfljót worm ... 🪱

A bit of background

Iceland's history is one of resilience and adaptation. Settled by Norse people in 870, it’s the only Arctic state without an Indigenous population.

By the 10th century, Iceland had blossomed into a thriving society of seafarers with a rich oral tradition captured in the Icelandic Sagas (fantastic stories that give precious insight into life in early medieval Iceland). Subjugated to Norwegian and then Danish rule, Iceland gained sovereignty in 1918, forming a union with Denmark before becoming independent in 1944.  

Though Iceland is in NATO, it has no standing military of its own; a permanent US defence force was hosted until 2006, and many allied military remain.

Today, Iceland is a modern Nordic nation known for its rich folklore (ask about the elves!), renewable energy prowess and otherworldly landscapes.