The Freely guide to summer in Iceland

Travelling Iceland in the summer feels like a pastel-hued dream – a combination of the country’s staggering scenery and the fact that it never gets completely dark. Even at 2am, the sun is dipped just below the horizon, creating an eerily beautiful twilight zone.

What this means is:  

a) There’s plenty of time in the day for adventuring (think bathing in hot rivers, admiring barking seals and purring puffins, walking behind colossal waterfalls and hiking routes so cosmic you could be on another planet); and

b) You’re probably going to want to sleep with an eye-mask.

What this does not mean is that the temperatures are always balmy and sublime. This is the Arctic, after all! Pack for all weather systems and if you’re camping (or sleeping in a non-insulated campervan), be sure bring warm things to snuggle into at night.

Getting there

From Australia:

There’s no such thing as a direct flight from Australia to Iceland; in fact, the journey will usually involve at least two stopovers, taking anywhere from 28–45 hours.  

British Airways offers a route from Sydney to Reykjavík–Keflavík Airport via Singapore and London; Singapore Airlines has a flight from Melbourne via Singapore and Copenhagen.  

If you’re coming straight from elsewhere in Europe, you should be able to get a direct flight from most major cities.

The capital

Reykjavik (say it with us: rake-ya-vik) is the world's northernmost capital, blending modernity with Icelandic heritage. The nearest airport is Reykjavík–Keflavík, which is about 50km away.  

Dive into the vibrant arts scene, hop on a whale-watching boat, wander the colourful streets and check out the Icelandic Phallological Museum, if that’s your jam.

English is widely spoken, but learning a few Icelandic phrases will really enhance your experience.

Must-tries

Feast on Icelandic delicacies like hákarl (fermented shark – the national dish), kjötsúpa (traditional lamb stew) and skyr (a creamy dairy product that has reached grocery stores the world over).  

Rye bread (rúgbrauð) is a staple here and snúður (cinammon snails – but pastry form) are delicious. Be sure to wash all these dishes down with brennivín, the local schnapps.

Stay in-the-know with the The Reykjavik Grapevine: an English-language magazine and online newspaper that has lots of info about events, news culture.  

Oh, and do beware of the Lagarfljót worm ... 🪱

A bit of background

Iceland's history is one of resilience and adaptation. Settled by Norse people in 870, it’s the only Arctic state without an Indigenous population.

By the 10th century, Iceland had blossomed into a thriving society of seafarers with a rich oral tradition captured in the Icelandic Sagas (fantastic stories that give precious insight into life in early medieval Iceland). Subjugated to Norwegian and then Danish rule, Iceland gained sovereignty in 1918, forming a union with Denmark before becoming independent in 1944.  

Though Iceland is in NATO, it has no standing military of its own; a permanent US defence force was hosted until 2006, and many allied military remain.

Today, Iceland is a modern Nordic nation known for its rich folklore (ask about the elves!), renewable energy prowess and otherworldly landscapes.

Your itinerary for summer in Iceland

Reykjavik to Þakgil (note that Þ is pronounced th)  
3 hours 15 mins

Head eastward from the capital on the scenic Ring Road (Route 1) towards Reykjadalur: a hikeable valley speckled with hot springs, mud baths and even a warm river. The walk is a bit of a slog at times, but so worth it!  

From there, Seljalandsfoss is an hour away – a 60m waterfall with a cascading curtain you can fully encircle, and Skógafoss a little after that – another spectacular 60m waterfall you can walk behind.  

Next, head to the quaint seafront village of Vík í Mýrdal, where you’ll find the striking black sands of Reynisfjara beach and the iconic Reynisdrangar sea stacks. There are heaps of yummy places to eat in Vík, and the church on the hill is worth hiking up to also.  

Finally, navigate the winding roads towards Þakgil: a remote and lesser-visited oasis nestled amidst steep cliffs and lush valley. Here, there are cottages and campsites to rest your head, and a bunch of hiking trails to explore.

Þakgil to Höfn
‍3 hours 50 mins

Departing from Þakgil, wind your way through more of Iceland's dramatic landscapes, passing the adorable village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur – where a unique waterfall (Systrafoss) winds through the middle.  

Once you’re back on the road, pause to have a look at the distinctive turf-roofed Hofskirkja: a historic church set amidst verdant fields. As you approach the famed Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, keep an eye out for playful seals bobbing among the icebergs and skuas soaring overhead.  

Pull over here for a good while and wander the lagoon's shores, marvelling at the glittering blue ice that dots the landscape – or even getting a boat out for a closer look.  

Spend the night in Höfn, where the rugged coastline meets the vast expanse of Vatnajökull: a ginormous glacier that covers 8% of Iceland’s landmass. This town is also famous for birdwatching and its delicious langoustine (lobster) dishes.

Höfn to Seydisfjordur
‍3 hours 50 mins

Your jaw will be on the floor a lot driving in Iceland, and today’s route will not disappoint – serving panoramic views of all sorts of stunning terrain and glacial rivers.  

Located on the east coast of Iceland at the innermost point of a fjord (which for those who don’t know, is a long, narrow sea inlet), Seydisfjordur is a fishing village that plays host to artists doing residencies all summer long.  

Here, dozens of waterfalls tinkle down the surrounding mountains, colourful wooden houses line the streets and cultural events take centre stage. It’s probably the most enchanting place we Freelies have ever visited.

It’s also a great place to base yourself for a few days as you embark on hikes, drive out to Borgarfjarðarhöfn to see the puffins or head up to Egilsstaðir to check out the galleries and museums (and the aforementioned creature that allegedly lives in Lagarfljót Lake).  

Seydisfjordur to Akureyri
3 hours 40 minutes

Leaving behind Seydisfjordur's sparkle, it’s time to make your way through the East Fjords and head to Akureyri, widely referred to as the Capital of the North.  

This city is on the shores of the Eyjafjörður fjord and has magnificent surrounds as well as a ripper botanic garden. As you traverse the winding roads on your way there, be prepared for countless opportunities to pause and marvel at imagination-defying scenery.

Highlights and very worthy detours including the whale-watching hub of Húsavík (prepare to spot minke, humpbacks and even blue whales), Goðafoss (aka ‘Waterfall of the Gods’), Ásbyrgi (a gorgeous horseshoe-shaped canyon steeped in folklore) and Dettifoss in Vatnajökull National Park – where the mighty waters of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river thunder over the cliff edge into the canyon below.

Akureyri to Reykjavik
5 hours

Leaving behind Akureyri's pretty setting, today you’ll drive back towards Reykjavik – passing through the heart of northern Iceland, where jagged mountains and fertile valleys paint a dramatic backdrop.  

Make a lunch stop at the cute village of Hvammstangi in Húnaflói Bay to explore the town's historic harbour and munch on locally caught seafood at one of the waterfront restaurants.  

If you’ve got time, the spectacular Vatnsnes peninsula is less than hour further north: home to Hvítserkur – the Dragon Rock, thousands of seals and the elusive Arctic fox.  

Continuing southward, the landscape transitions from coastal plains to rolling hills, with glimpses of glaciers in the distance, until you arrive back in Iceland’s capital.

Goða ferð (like Þ, the letter ð is also pronounced th in this particular phrase) – good journey!