The Freely guide to summer in Sicily (away from the crowds)

Summer in Sicily is a time to return to the simple pleasures of life. It’s savouring the warmth of sunshine on your skin. It’s popping Involtini di melanzane into your mouth and licking the sauce off your fingers. It’s swimming in pristine rock pools and hearing the tinkle of shells as they’re gently swept along the sea floor. It’s staying in a grand farmhouse amongst olive groves and learning how Sicilians produce the oro liquido (liquid gold) we all know and love.

One of five autonomous Italian regions, Sicily is an island – and a densely populated one at that. Mount Etna, Europe's most active volcano, towers in the eastern part of the island; the countryside is dotted with vineyards, olive groves and citrus orchards; and the coastline is stunning whether you’re enjoying it from land or sailboat.

While it’s always been a holiday hotspot, the cult television series White Lotus brought intensified attention to Sicily, with its second season taking place in Taormina’s luxurious San Domenico Palace. Since then, many-a tourist have sought a taste of this luxury for themselves and flocked to the area.

In the case you’d like to avoid these crowds, we’re letting you in on some of Sicily’s better kept secrets for your summer adventure.

‍From Australia:

You can fly to Italy from several major airports in Australia, including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth. In total, 43 airlines currently offer a route there – among them Scoot, Virgin, Qantas, Thai Airways and Malindo Air.

There are no direct flights to Sicily from Australia; in fact, you’ll have at least two connections in various Asian and European cities. You’ll land in either Catania Airport in Sicily’s south-west, or Palermo in the north.

Travel time varies – from Perth you could arrive in around 25 hours; from Sydney, you’re looking at about 28.

From Italy:

Given Sicily is an island off Italy’s eastern coast, many people choose to travel from the mainland using one of the various ferry routes. It can be useful to have a car in Sicily (especially if you’d like to get off the beaten track away from those crowds!), so there are regular car and passenger ferries running from locations such as Napoli, Reggio Calabria and Salerno.  

Alternatively, you can hire a car once on the island if you choose to fly. (Check out Freely’s Rental Vehicle Insurance Excess Boost if you decide to hire a car.)

‍Must tries:

Sicily is renowned for its street food – sample mouth-watering stuzzichini (appetisers) like panelle (chickpea fritters), sfincione (Sicilian pizza), and arancini (rice balls). The particularly fertile Sicilian soil means that local ingredients are fresh and full of flavour – vendors will slice plump tomatoes and drizzle them with olive oil for you to enjoy. Seafood plays a prominent role in Sicilian cuisine, and your tastebuds will lead you to straight to spieddini di pesce as it grills on an open flame. A major highlight of your time in Sicily will be the food – we promise!

A bit of background:

Sicily has a long and complex history – all the way back to the Paleolithic period in fact. Excavations at Grotta dell'Uzzo have uncovered flint tools, animal bones and evidence of fire use, suggesting that it served as a shelter for prehistoric hunter-gatherer communities.

In more recent history, the island has been ruled by various empires, each which has shaped the Sicily that exists today. While it is now Italian territory, this unification only occurred in the 19th century. Sicilian culture is a blend of Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman and Spanish influences, evident in its architecture, language, music and cuisine.

Home to 4.8 million people, Sicily is a diverse and thriving island. Sicilians are known for their warmth, hospitality and strong sense of community.

Where to beat the crowds

As the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily is not only home to many natural gems but also vibrant cities and towns, each with their own unique feel. Here are some of our favourite lesser-known spots.

Scopello  

An hour west of Palermo, you’ll find this slice of Mediterranean bliss. The nearby town Castellammare del Golfo draws many visitors and it’s near impossible to get an inch of beach to lay your towel, so Scopello is a haven for those looking for a more peaceful seaside experience.  

Perched atop a hill, the historic heart of Scopello bursts with bougainvillea climbing the whitewashed walls, gelaterias and restaurants overlooking the ocean. Only a few minutes’ drive from the town centre is the Zingaro Nature Reserve, spanning seven kilometres of hikeable coast. While the earliest beaches along the trail get pretty packed in the summer months, if you walk a little further you’ll be rewarded by pristine and secluded coves of dazzling beauty. From the town centre, you can follow narrow footpaths through the grassy hillside directly down to the sea – and sometimes you’ll have the glistening rock pools all to yourself!

Erice

‍Perched atop a hill overlooking the western coast of Sicily, Erice stands out among Sicily's towns because of its unique combination of medieval architecture, historic streets and unparalleled panoramic views. This is a place where history and beauty truly collide. Whether exploring the Norman castle, savouring the delectible dolci ericini (paired with a Marsala Riserva Superiore!), or simply enjoying the sunset, you’ll find Erice to be an enchanting escape into the past.

Isole Egadi

Off the western coast, accessible by ferry from Trapani, is a small archipelago with a wealth of outdoor activities to enjoy. Explore underwater caves, encounter vibrant marine life, and discover ancient shipwrecks in the cerulean waters.  

These islands are steeped in history and culture, boasting archaeological sites, ancient ruins, and picturesque fishing villages. Of the three main islands - Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo - Levanzo is the smallest and least developed of the Egadi Islands, it offers a peaceful escape from the crowds along with prehistoric cave paintings in Grotta del Genovese.

Aci Trezza

Nestled on the eastern coast between Catania and Taormina, this charming seaside village is famous for the Cyclopean Isles, which feature in Homer's Odyssey tale. Colourful fishing boats bob gently in the harbor framed by these dramatic basalt rock formations rising from the crystal-clear Ionian Sea. Also famous for its vibrant fish market, Aci Trezza is the perfect destination to buy a whole fish and ingredienti per insalata to create a delicious feast back at your villa!  

From here you can also travel to nearby Aci Castello to relax on black-sand beaches, or the Riviera dei Ciclopi – the stretch of coastline between Aci Trezzi and Catania – which is dotted with small coves, hidden beaches and rocky cliffs with secluded spots for swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing away from the crowds.

Realmonte

‍This town sits only a 20-minute drive west of the historical city of Agrigento and the nearby Valle dei Templi, a UNESCO World Heritage site of stunningly well-preserved ancient Greek temples. Realmonte is a base from which you can explore these places, while staying in a more relaxed atmosphere. Its biggest drawcard is the Scala dei Turchi, a unique natural formation of white limestone cliffs that slope gently into the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea. While limestone cliffs are a feature in other Sicilian towns, none are quite as striking as these.

Modica

‍Located in southeastern Sicily, this town is known for its stunning Baroque architecture. If exploring grand churches and elegant palaces is your thing (without the crowds of Palermo), you’ll be content in Modica. After a day of leisurely sight-seeing, treat yourself to Modica’s unique chocolate made using a cold-processing method that preserves the cocoa's natural flavour and texture. The town is famous for its chocolate-making heritage, producing traditional chocolate using ancient Aztec techniques brought to Sicily by the Spanish.

Castelvetrano

‍Tucked along Sicily's sun-kissed southwest coast lies Castelvetrano: a village of rustic charm and farm-to-table cuisine. Here, among the rolling hills adorned with ancient olive groves and vineyards, you can stroll through streets passing by family-owned trattorias offering hearty Sicilian fare paired with local wines. Embrace the simplicity of life as you sip on robust reds and savour the flavours of freshly pressed olive oil. Castelvetrano itself has an authentic charm and it is a great base to visit the surrounding local family-owned agriturismo businesses. Explore olive groves by bike or on foot, immersing yourself in the tranquil rhythms of Sicilian rural life.