The Freely guide to summer in Greece (away from the crowds)

The Greek summer is eating honey-drizzled saganaki in the sun. It’s diving off wooden boats into turquoise water. It’s dancing all night to the bouzouki. It’s the yia yias tending herb gardens and old men playing games of tavli in the park.

From the ancient ruins of Athens to the iconic islands of Santorini and Mykonos, Greece in the summertime is a postcard for that sweet, sweet Mediterranean lifestyle. People love it; in fact, last year, the country welcomed 23 million tourists, making it one of Europe’s most-visited destinations.

But trust us, it’s still possible to dodge the crowds and get a dinner reservation this summer in Greece; you just have to stray from the beaten path – and this is the one guide you need for that.

Getting there

From Australia

You can fly to Greece from several major airports in Australia, including Sydney, Melbourne and Perth. In total, 29 airlines currently offer a route there – including Scoot, Qantas, Thai Airways, Emirates, Swiss and Malindo Air.

Travel time is around 21 hours if you fly from Perth to Athens, or 26 hours from Sydney to Athens, and this will always include at least one stopover in cities like Doha, Singapore and Istanbul.

‍The capital

Athens is one of the world’s oldest cities, widely considered the cradle of western civilisation. Today, it’s a bustling nucleus that blends ancient marvels with modern flair.  

It’s well worth spending a few days sweating your way around the nearby ruins, taverna-hopping through Plaka (the city’s oldest neighbourhood), combing the Monastiraki Flea Market for treasure and admiring politically charged street art in Exarchia.  

The city’s international airport is a stone's throw from the centre, and Athens is also served by several ports – with the main one being Piraeus, one of the busiest in the whole Mediterranean.

A bit of background

Things really kicked off for Greece back in the Neolithic period in about 7,000 BC – though human-like footprints found in Crete are estimated to be more than 6 million years old!  

The subsequent millennia witnessed the rise and fall of powerful city-states, notably Athens and Sparta, with the 5th century marking Greece's golden age and the construction of monuments like the Parthenon.  

Over the centuries, Greece endured Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman rule – with each leaving indelible marks on its heritage. The modern Greek state was established in 1830.  

Recent times saw the Greek economy experience a tumultuous debt crisis in the wake of the 2008 Great Recession, which it has largely (but painfully) recovered from. The country is currently hosting tens of thousands of refugees, with boatloads of people fleeing conflict, persecution and poverty arriving in places like Lesbos and Chios from Turkey every day.  

Greece is also currently facing political challenges around the rise of the far right, but remains safe for tourists.

Where to beat the crowds

Note that ‘chora’ means ‘town’ in Greek, and the Greeks always call the main town on an island 'chora’ – hence the large amount of choras in the suggested destinations below.

Amorgos

Tucked away in the Cyclades southeast of mainland Greece, Amorgos greets visitors with a sign that says, ‘Welcome to Amorgos. Nobody will find you here.’  

Ruggedly mountainous with charming alleyways, mysterious caves and Panagia Hozoviotissa – an ancient monastery overlooking the sea that dates back to the 11th century – this gem of an island has a long tradition of livestock farming, meaning there’s plenty of specialty goat and sheep cheeses to try.  

Amorgos is also covered in a web of not-too-challenging hikes (think walks through terraced hillsides and fragrant maquis that lead to secluded beaches and hidden coves… *sighs*). For a night out, head to the bars and cafes in chora or Katapola, where locals and travellers gather to enjoy cocktails and traditional music.

Pelion Peninsula‍

Positioned on the eastern coast of mainland Greece, the Pelion Peninsula is a verdant region steeped in mythology and tradition, and home to some of the country’s best deserted beaches.

Be sure to explore the winding cobblestone streets of Milies and Makrinitsa, adorned with traditional stone houses and vibrant bougainvillea; embark on scenic hikes that lead to breathtaking viewpoints (such as the trek from the cute village of Kissos to Tympanos Springs and waterfall) and dive into the azure waters of Mylopotamos and Agios Ioannis beaches.

For an evening of revelry, we recommend heading to the seaside town of Volos or the mountain villages of Portaria and Makrinitsa, where lively bars and tavernas cater to locals and tourists alike.

Alonissos

Nestled in the heart of the Sporades (an archipelago in the northwest Aegean Sea), Alonissos is a remote and tranquil island of outstanding beauty that was one of the first in the area to be inhabited.

Known for its lush vegetation, many beautiful beaches and astakomakaronada (lobster pasta – though the local tuna pasta is also delicious), Alonissos also has a pristine marine park packed with rare sealife to befriend through the mask of a snorkel.  

After a day of exploration, unwind in one of the waterfront tavernas in Patitiri or the incredibly quaint and cobbled Old Town.

Chios

Located in the northeastern Aegean, Chios is a vacation favourite with local Greeks and worth visiting for its medieval villages and mastic groves.  

Mesta, with its fortified walls and cobblestone streets, is a prime example of the island's architectural legacy, while southern Chios offers a glimpse into traditional ways of life – where locals continue to cultivate and harvest mastic resin, a prized ingredient used in cooking and cosmetics.  

Be sure to visit the picturesque fishing villages of Kardamyla and Lagada, where colourful boats bob in the harbour and waterfront tavernas serve fresh fish; visit the UNESCO-listed Nea Moni monastery, a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture; and roam the ruins of ancient Anavatos, perched on a hilltop above the ocean.

Kythnos

Located in the western Cyclades, Kythnos (also called Thermia) is known for its honey, therapeutic thermal springs and traditional villages.  

Be sure to visit the picturesque chora with its whitewashed houses and inviting tavernas (order the sfouggato: the island’s famous cheese pie); unwind on beaches like Agios Dimitrios and Kolona; and immerse yourself in the healing waters of Loutra Beach, where natural thermal springs bubble forth and offer soothing relief for various ailments.  

When night falls, join the locals for a festive evening in Loutra, where live music and traditional dancing are accompanied by delicious Greek cuisine.

Astypalaia

This lesser-known and mostly self-sustained island in the Dodecanese (in the southeastern Aegean Sea) offers charming villages, a laid-back atmosphere and a Venetian castle.  

Agios Konstantinos Beach, with its golden sands and sparkling sea, provides a tranquil escape from the crowds, while Livadi Beach invites visitors to unwind beneath the shade of tamarisk trees. Trek to the peak of Profitis Ilias for breathtaking views of the surrounding islands, or dive into an underwater world teeming with marine life.  

Though it’s perfect for a chilled summer escape with seafood for every meal, partygoers will also find places to let their hair down in chora – where you can dance at trendy bars and beach clubs until the wee hours.

Paxos

Nestled south of Corfu, the tiny island of Paxos is one of the least commercial in the Ionian Sea – and it’s also ridiculously pretty, from its secluded beaches to its charming villages like Gaios, Lakka and Loggos.  

Explore secret coves, snorkel in crystal-clear bays and sail along the rugged coastline with the hits of ABBA blaring in the background (IYKYK).  

Paxos exudes an authentic Greek ambiance, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in its slow-paced island life – but you can also party the night away at one of the beach clubs in Mongonissi, where DJs spin tracks late and cocktails flow freely.