Freely writer Matt Cheok shows us how to get off the beaten track in Hungary (with help from his Hungarian partner) 🇭🇺
Pálinka shots, hearty goulash and countless Egészségedre toasts were my introductions to Hungary when I first arrived with my partner to meet her family.
Since then, I’ve had the privilege of exploring this beautiful country, enjoying the warm hospitality of its people, and uncovering a side many travellers don’t get to see.
With my local guide by my side, here are six of my favourite destinations that will make you fall in love with Hungary, too.
1. Miskolctapolca Cave Bath
For Hungarians, a visit to the spa is a deeply embedded tradition.
While visitors often flock to the iconic Széchenyi Thermal Bath in Budapest, a truly unique encounter awaits the more intrepid in the Bükk Mountains of northeastern Hungary.
It’s here you’ll discover the magnificent Miskolctapolca Cave Bath, which has been formed over millennia by thermal waters flowing through limestone rock. Think of it as a pool system that runs through a cave and presents a one-of-a-kind spa experience.
Whether you're soaking for therapeutic benefits or keen for a unique bathing experience, there's a pool with varying temperatures and depths for everyone.
Our favourite space is the “Starry Grotto,” set in a dome section of the cave. It's illuminated by tiny lights that make you feel like you’re swimming under the stars (and the acoustics are pretty amazing, too).
With locker rooms, showers, and hairdryers, this spa makes it easy to spend a full or half-day relaxing and rejuvenating.
2. Tokaj Wine Region
You might be fooled into thinking you've stepped onto the set of Hobbiton from The Lord of the Rings, but the triangle-shaped doors nestled into Gombos Hill in Hercegkút actually lead to an amazing network of wine cellars.
Each cellar is designed to maintain consistent temperature and humidity and is a testament to the region's winemaking heritage. Carved from hard andesite rock, the entrances lead to cellars lined with softer rhyolite tuff, reaching 10-40 metres below the surface, making for a very pleasant wine-tasting opportunity.
With nearly 80 cellars to explore, visitors can sample the renowned Tokaji Aszú wines and the atmosphere that draws locals each weekend.
Viticultural traditions are celebrated with several annual festivals, making Hercegkút a must-visit destination for wine enthusiasts and, generally, anyone keen to see the impressive architectural design.
3. Lake Balaton
Lake Balaton holds cherished memories for generations of Hungarians, especially from the communist era when international travel was limited.
This timeless destination attracts locals in summer for the Balaton Sound music festival and other live music events. Families often gather along the southern shores, while Tihany and the renowned Paprika House (its facade is covered in paprika) offer stunning views from the lake's northern side of the lake.
Lake Balaton is easily accessible from Budapest by train in under a few hours. It is also well-served by a reliable and interconnected ferry service.
As Hungary is landlocked, Lake Balaton offers a fantastic substitute for a beach holiday, ideal for swimming and summer relaxation. It's definitely worth adding to your itinerary!
4. Hortobágy
Hungary’s connection to the steppe and its cultural traditions endure through its local herdsmen—the csikósok.
For generations, they’ve raised livestock on these plains, identifiable by their distinctive attire, including the elegant szűr (an embroidered woolen coat), a wide-brimmed felt hat and high leather boots known as bocskor.In Hortobágy, you’ll have a chance to witness their impressive horsemanship, highlighted by the remarkable puszta ötös —a display of skill where a csikós stands on two horses while leading three others (and was historically used to manage vast herds on the Hungarian plains).
Hortobágy National Park also boasts a diverse ecosystem that supports over 300 bird species and attracts birdwatchers from all over the world.
Bonus if time allows
Stop by Debrecen, Hungary’s second-largest city, to enjoy a Dobos cake—a layered sponge with rich, buttery chocolate combined with a crunchy caramel topping that cracks when you break through the top.
If you're visiting in August, you should definitely check out the spectacular Flower Carnival.
5. Eger
For a quintessential Hungarian small-town experience, Eger is not to be missed.
The city is charming with its Baroque architecture, narrow streets, hilltop castle, Ottoman minaret, and eye-catching Minorite Church in Dobó István Square.
A lunch pit-stop in the square offers a perfect escape from the summer heat and a chance to indulge in the local cuisine. We highly recommend HBH Sörház és Étterem, serving up dishes including the tasty pork knuckle, Palócleves (Mutton Soup), and Halászlé (Fisherman's Soup).
6. Visegrád
Towering above the Danube Bend, Visegrád Castle is one of our favourite vantage points in Hungary.
The fortress, perched on a hill approximately 300 metres above the Danube River, offers spectacular views of the Börzsöny Hills and beyond.
Historically, the castle was a key royal residence and military stronghold during the medieval period, and it once housed the Hungarian crown jewels.
If you’re searching for your next European destination, look no further than Hungary.
You’ll fall in love with the people (I did, literally), the warm hospitality, and the spectacular gems scattered across the country.
There’s so much to explore beyond Budapest that truly captures the spirit of this extraordinary part of the world.