There’s more to Budapest than ruin bars. Hungarian writer Fruzsi Gál shares a local guide to this fun and fascinating European capital.
With some of Europe’s biggest music festivals taking place in Hungary (including Balaton Sound every July and Sziget Festival every August), it’s no wonder that more of the young and young-at-heart are adding Hungary to their Euro-summer bucket lists.
But don’t be fooled – while drinking is a part of Hungarian culture (pálinka, anyone?), there is plenty more to Hungary than a good drink, especially in its capital, Budapest.
Leave the thermal bath parties and Gozsdu Court festivities to the masses and follow us to see more of the real Budapest.
Getting there
From Australia
You can fly to Hungary from several major airports in Australia, including Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, however, none of these will be direct flights.
Depending on which city you’re flying from, you will most likely have a connection in either Doha or Dubai, or Singapore or Shanghai.
Travel times can vary depending on cost, airline, and where you depart from, but are generally between 21 and 30 hours. Either way, you will land in Hungary’s gorgeous capital city, Budapest.
A little bit about Hungary and Budapest
Hungary has a long and convoluted history with plenty of ups and downs over the centuries. It’s seen many wars, violent occupations, national revolutions and booming artistic and cultural periods alike.
But some things never change. At its heart, Hungary has always been a country of rich traditions marked by a national tendency to stick together.
Hungarians are known to be exceptional hosts, and learning a couple of words in Hungarian will go a long way in breaking the ice with locals.
Budapest itself has a long and fascinating history. The first town in its place was built by Celts in the first century BC along the slopes of Gellért Hill. Over the centuries Buda and Pest were two separate cities, at times occupied by different groups, and it wasn’t until 1873 that Óbuda, Buda and Pest were unified into one single city named Budapest.
Nowadays, Budapest has a population of 1,780,000 and an ever-growing reputation as a desired tourist destination. Most people in the capital speak English to some degree and tourists are welcomed with open arms.
Of course, the growing number of tourists means a growing number of tourist traps. Luckily, we’re here to tell you how to dodge these in favour of an authentically Hungarian experience besides the baths and ruin bars (the name given to bars that have been established inside the ruins of old buildings).
Must-try: the cake of Hungary
Before you hit the pavement to explore Budapest, we need to talk about cake.
Every year on the 20th of August, Hungarians celebrate the establishment of the Hungarian State and the country’s more than 1,000-year-old history. If you are travelling through Hungary at this time, there are three important things to keep in mind:
1. First of all, most stores, museums and restaurants will be closed on this day, so plan your day accordingly.
2. Second, you’ll want to find your way to the banks of the Danube for an incredible firework show after sunset. Get yourself a drink at Pontoon and set yourself up along the Danube between this bar and the parliament building for the perfect viewing experience.
3. And most importantly, this is the day that the cake of Hungary is announced.
The cake of Hungary is a competition that any baker can enter, as long as their creation features popular Hungarian flavours and fruits. The winner is announced on the national holiday.
Make sure to drop by a cukrászda (a Hungarian pâtisserie) on this day, and you can be amongst the first to try the winning delicacy – or simply look for previous years' cakes.
To give you an idea, the 2023 winner was called ‘Spicces Füge Respektus,’ and it was a concoction of salted caramel mousse, cherry fig jelly spiced with a Hungarian wine, and white chocolate ganache with acacia honey. You’re in for a treat, no matter which year’s cake you try!
Some other must-try sweets include kakaós csiga (cocoa scroll) at Pékműhely; dobostorta (traditional Hungarian chocolate cake) at Gerbeaud Cukrászda; or aranygaluska (Hungarian bread pudding) at Felix Kitchen & Bar.
Your itinerary for the ultimate day in Budapest
The perfect day in Budapest must begin with a delicious breakfast — the Hungarian way.
Eating out for breakfast is still a relatively new and fancy thing in Hungary, so instead of exploring the many trendy, up-and-coming brunch spots around the city, we recommend something a bit more simple, a bit less healthy, but all the more delicious.
Start your day at Központi Vásárcsarnok (Central/Great Market Hall), where you’ll find just about anything you might want to try: rich sausages with a thick slice of white bread and mustard on the side, strudels of every flavour (we recommend the cabbage-pork knuckle strudel) and lángos (deep fried dough with sour cream and cheese on top) the size of a serving platter.
Once you’re sufficiently full (a feeling you’ll get used to in Hungary), it’s time to head over to our favourite spot, Városliget (City Park).
While there’s no denying that the most picturesque location in the city is the Castle District on the hill, it’s nearly impossible to get more than a square metre of personal space to yourself, especially during peak season.
To get away from the crowds, experience Hungarian history both old and new, and enjoy a gorgeous day outdoors, Városliget hits the mark. Enter the park at Heroes’ Square, then start with a leisurely stroll around the beautiful gardens. The park is filled with immaculately kept rose gardens, free sports amenities and plenty to explore.
If you only have time for one activity, make it the House of Music: this one-of-a-kind exhibition-come-architectural feat is a delight for all senses, dedicated to the beauty of sound inside and out. The permanent exhibition is always worth a visit, but make sure you book in advance as tickets sell out fast.
Some of our other favourite spots in the park include the stunning Vajdahunyad Castle, built in 1896 as part of the Millennial Exhibition which celebrated 1,000 years of Hungary; the Museum of Ethnography, memorable not only for its interesting exhibitions but the architectural design of the building; and Mimosa Hill, a local favourite for summertime picnics, complete with a hot air balloon lookout over the city.
And if you haven’t had your fill of cultural activity, Heroes’ Square is hugged by two imposing institutions, the Museum of Fine Arts, and the Kuntshalle, both worth a visit.
After your day spent learning about the history, culture and art of Hungary, end the day in a lesser-known but all-the-more-fun spot: Lövőház Street near Millenáris Park has the same high vibe as Gozsdu Court, but it’s frequented by locals rather than tourists.
The street is filled with restaurants, bars and cafes, with the tables spilling out onto the street and fairy lights making it perfect for an atmospheric dinner spent outdoors.
For a nightcap, simply walk over to Zsiráf in Millenáris Park. It’s the perfect way to finish your day.
Take a day trip to the picturesque town of Szentendre
Venture twenty kilometres out of the city and you’ll find yourself in the quaint river-side town of Szentendre.
Szentendre is best explored on foot as it's teeming with beautiful cobblestone alleys, old churches, charming stores and artisan boutiques, museums and galleries along the way, with more restaurants and cafes than you'll be able to sample.
Make sure you pay a visit to the famous Szamos Marzipan Museum, have a refreshing homemade lemonade on the main square, or buy high quality, authentic Hungarian porcelain at Herendi Porcelán.
If you have the whole day, the nearby Skanzen is the perfect spot to add history and culture to an otherwise Instagram-worthy trip. Also known as the Hungarian Open Air Museum, the Skanzen is an ethnographic museum that preserves the heritage of Hungarian life and showcases the habitats, environments and possessions of people long gone.
Pop into old bakeries and see how bread was made back in the day, wander around traditional homes complete with actors dressed in period wear and explore fun interactive elements for kids and adults alike.
Hero image 📸 Christian Lue